Può proteggere la spina elettrica quando stampo 3d in giardino sotto a un temporale? O magari in prossimità di una vasca da bagno

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Fighi gli ingranaggi in metallo, quelli tipo nano coated. Li ho montati sulla N4P e funzionano, non che sia cambiato nulla nell'estrusione 😛 ...magari durano un po' di piu'.

Ma l'idea non e' che quelle macchine costano di piu' perche' funzionano out of the box? Se la tua non va' contatta l'assistenza di Bambu e mandagliela bene indietro, che te ne spediscano un'altra.

...infatti , basterebbe anhe un cavo miniusb infatti adesso finita la prima stampa nn va nulla :-(

Ma deduco che quelle stampanti non ce l'hanno un RJ45 per connetterle col cavo alla vecchia maniera? ...sarebbe stato troppo facile!

si la Torre di Babele sarebbe la Temp Tower :-) Comunque prima ho provato a far andare quel progettino in Silk. l'unico problema è che ad un certo punto Bambu ha perso la connettività con la stampante forse perche anche orca era connessa, comunque è ripartito Orca e a me sembra anche che sia più "prestante" Ora provo a fare la torre anche se a mio avviso non serve , ma essendo un filamento della meglio farlo , anche perche sta un pò colando dall'estrusore

il driver del motore di Z che non funziona, io non conosco quella macchina, se posti anche qualche link di riferimento potrei aiutarti meglio. Di solito tutte le macchine di questo tipo, stampanti 3D, CNC, incisori laser a diodo o a Co2, per far andare i motori usano i drivers, se poi mi dici che spostando Z su Y lo stesso Z ha ricominciato a funzionare... allora credo proprio che il driver del motore di Z abbia tirato le cuoia, oppure si è solo scollegato qualche cavo... per avere la conferma potresi attaccare Y al driver di Z e vedere se funziona oppure no.

allora... il problema di slicing era dovuto al fatto che i nuovi slicers trovano il pezzo NON mainfold, quindi una volta riparato lo ha affettato senza "fallo" (nel senso che non ha fatto cazzate lo slicer 😄 ). Il che mi lascia un po' basito perché la prima volta che l'ho stampato con la Ender3 che era stock all'epoca, si parla del 2019, aveva marlin e lo slicer che usavo era Cura 4. qualcosa... mi pare, capisco che gli slicers si evolvono però.... e siccome la fortuna è cieca ma la sfiga ci vede benissimo.... si è rotto un dente di uno degli ingranaggi a doppia ruota dell'estrusore della K1C... ho preso quelli completamente in metallo su Amazon che arriveranno venerdì... li provo e poi, sempre che interessi, vi dico se funzionano oppure no.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/third-party-integration https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/issues/9796#issuecomment-2941774812 Ma la "torre di Babele" che sarebbe? La Temp tower?

ciao e grazie ... per prima cosa devo dire che ora Orca mi si connette ( c'è il cerchiolino sotto il simbolo del wi-fi) affetto la torre, e poi scelgo come opzione per inviare in stampa piatto di stampa che non mi sembra essere la scelta giusta , ma è l'unica che poi mi "trasporta" nella sezione ed anche qui c'è stato un miglioramento , cioè mi fa vedere con la camera (quando abilito il caricamento) ma ho un pallino rosso nella sezione HMS con la dicitura La verifica del comando MQTT non è riuscita.....cosa devo fare ? Ora Passiamo a ambu Studio la prima cosa che sono andato a vedere è stato l firmware che in effetti è l'ultimo (01.08.02.00) sono in lan mode e mi sovviene la domanda come faccio a passare da Connect di Bambu? ...e comunque rimane il fatto che aumentando la temperatura del piatto finalmente si attacca il primo layer come si vede dalla foto , anche se si sono dei pelucchi che si alzano.... è un Silk e la temperatura è come indicato dalla bobina quando riusciro a fare una torre di babele ?

Ma perche' ti sei incapponito a metter mano a quell'affare? Cosi' e nata e cosi' morira', se vuoi farti le tue modifiche comprati una Voron o una Ratrig. E' gia' strepitoso che questi siano stati disponibili a modificare e ricompilarti il firmware.

Il produttore più di tanto non mi aiuta. Mi ha mandato il firmware già in formato .hex solo da flashare. Sto litigando anche con i sensori di fine filamento e allo stesso modo mi dicono che va bene tutto...

Ho appena acquistato una macchina CNC a 4 assi CNCEST 3040T con un motore VFD da 800 W. Avevo installato tutto e all'improvviso l'azionamento Z ha smesso di funzionare, mentre prima funzionava. Ho invertito gli assi Y e Z sul retro del controller e si è scoperto che l'azionamento Z funziona sotto l'asse Y, quindi non è il motore passo-passo Z. Ho disinstallato MACH 3, eliminato la cartella MACH 3 e reinstallato, ma l'azionamento Z continua a non funzionare. Mentre aspetto che il venditore mi contatti in merito a questo problema, sto valutando di risolverlo e migliorarlo nel frattempo invece di restituirlo. Qualcuno sa quale potrebbe essere il problema?